A Backpacker's Guide to Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu has a really nice low key feel to it. It's colorful, backpacker friendly (in Thamel), with cool cafes, some beautiful red brick architecture, and it feels relatively safe. It's a place where you can take things easy - take your time and soak it in - with no fomo. If you are in Nepal for trekking, it's probably exactly what you need.

*We travelled at the end of April. The air pollution was pretty bad

What to do:

Monkey Temple (Swayambhunath)

An important ancient Tibetian Buddhist temple perched on a hill about 15 minutes in a Taxi from Thamel. There is an impressive stupa with eyes painted on it, a good view of Kathmandu, and many mischievous monkeys (to match the monkier). If I remember correctly, it costs about 200 NPR to enter for foreigners.

Lalitpur

Lalitpur, aside from having a really nice name, is really worth a visit for its historic palaces and temples built by the Malla kings. Most of the current architecture is from the 1600s, and really gives you a feeling of past Asian glory. Also wonderful was the fact that there were very few tourists. The complex is impressive but not large - you can see it in about an hour, and wander a bit more in the shops and cafes in the area.

Get a Massage - I got a really great massage at Zen Spa in Thamel the day after returning from our trek.

Where to stay:

We stayed at Flock Hostel in a private room. The location was perfect, in a quiet part of Thamel close to everything. And the room was comfortable and had AC. There is a nice rooftop with a view of the whole city. You must order the Masala Chai - we enjoyed a cup every day.

Where to eat and drink:

Yangling Tibetian Restaurant:

A fantastic traditional cozy Tibetian restaurant where everything is made in house by the family who runs it. We came back several times to eat the Thentuk noodle soup, vegetable momos, chilli momos, and Tibetian fried rice. Also the Nepali craft beers are wonderful and flavorful.

BarC

A cool speakeasy that only expats know about (I have an expat friend). It's in a neighborhood near Thamel, upstairs in an office building.. it felt safe to take a taxi there. There were fancy cocktails and a nice atmosphere.

Himalaya Java Cafe

There are several of these cafes in Kathmandu, but the big one in the center of Thamel is the best. They have good coffee and Nepali tea, nice breakfasts (not Nepali though), and a great atmosphere.

The cafe down the alley from Flock Hostel:

I think it's called 'Mira's coffee'

We made friends with the owner of this little cafe - a one man show very popular among backpackers. He really invests in every cup.

How to get in:

We paid for the official taxi (about 700 NPR). I think it's easy that way. But that was before I discovered the In-drive app. Anyways, you pay at the top of the stairs before going down to the airport exit.

How to get around:

Use the In-drive app to order a taxi. Just like uber but you pay in cash. It's nice because you see the price in advance. We also used it to get back to the airport. Generally, we felt safe in Nepali taxis.

Sim Card:

I bought a Nepal Telecom (Namaste) one in the airport, after you exit the baggage claim area. It worked well. You'll need to bring a passport photo with you.

Money exchange:

I exchanged a small amount of money at the airport where you pay for the visa. There is an exchange right next to it. There are many exchanges in Thamel. I also used an ATM once, but there is a high withdrawl fee, so it's better to bring cash and exchange it. Remember when you go on a trek there are no exchanges or ATMs, so you need to figure out in Kathmandu how much money to take with you.

Visa:

Best to fill the form online before arriving in Nepal and printing it out. It's possible to use the machines at the airport, but there is a line. You have to pay $30 in cash. They say you must bring the exact amoutn, but they do have change.